Discovered in the 1930s and used in dermatology for various indications, retinol has become the star of anti-aging care for over 20 years. But is it really the most powerful anti-aging product? The answer is yes, provided that it is used regularly. I explain why in this blog.
The benefits of retinol: what does the science say?
The ability of retinol and its derivatives to slow down skin aging through various mechanisms has long been demonstrated. The benefits are very varied and may not all be identified yet. This family of molecules stimulates cell renewal and collagen production, while helping to repair elastin fibers. This helps reduce wrinkles and fine lines, improve the elasticity and firmness of the epidermis, and make the skin smoother.
Retinol also helps reduce sebum production, tighten pores, and fade dark spots. Skin texture becomes more beautiful, blemishes such as acne diminish, and signs of skin aging, such as expression lines, diminish.
So why don't we put them everywhere?
The retinoid family has many advantages, but it also has a disadvantage: a drying and irritating effect that varies depending on the quantities applied and the skin type. This phenomenon is particularly observed on light phototypes and is more common in women with mature skin. In short, the skin can become red and dry, which requires reducing applications to only 2-3 times a week in some cases.
This is problematic because all of the studies that have demonstrated the anti-aging effectiveness of retinol have been conducted with daily or even twice-daily application. The lifespan of retinol in the skin after application is relatively short, on the order of a few hours. Therefore, if we only apply it three times a week, our skin will only benefit very partially from its anti-aging effects.
What is 4th Generation Retinol?
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR), or fourth-generation retinol, represents a significant advancement in anti-aging skincare. HPR is an esterified form of the retinoid all-trans-retinoic acid, which binds directly to the skin’s retinoid receptors, allowing for increased efficacy with less irritation.
Advantages of HPR
- Immediate effectiveness: HPR does not require conversion in the skin, which allows for rapid and effective action.
- Less irritation: HPR is generally better tolerated than older forms of retinoids, making it suitable even for sensitive skin.
- Stability: HPR is more stable than conventional retinol, which extends its shelf life and effectiveness in cosmetic formulations.
What is the ideal application rate?
If you have sensitive skin (light skin, blue eyes), you can start with an application of HPR in the evening, on the face and around the eyes. If the skin remains supple and hydrated after 10-15 days, you can apply it morning and evening, as this is the ideal frequency to guarantee maximum effectiveness.
And the sun?
A persistent myth is that retinol should only be used at night because of its photosensitivity. However, as mentioned earlier, all studies on this molecule have been done with morning and evening application. It is true that retinol can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, but it can be used safely during the day. In case of sun exposure, it is essential to apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen, which protects against external aggressions and free radicals. It does not matter whether the retinol was applied in the evening or in the morning. Photosensitivity is mainly observed at high doses, which is not the case with an adequately dosed HPR retinoate product.
A study published in Dermatologic Surgery showed that subjects using retinol during the day, while applying adequate sun protection, did not experience additional skin damage compared to those using retinol only at night.
When to start using retinol?
Retinol can be introduced into a skincare routine from the twenties for its preventative effects, particularly on acne, impurities, and skin texture ("glass skin" effect). Its use is strongly recommended from the thirties, when the signs of skin aging begin to appear more visibly. It can also be a great ally for mature skin, in order to fight against sagging skin and deep wrinkles.
Can you apply retinol all over your body?
Yes, the skin on our body should ideally be treated like the skin on our face. It is surprising that the cosmetic industry only offers moisturizing creams for the body, without anti-aging active ingredients, while the skin ages everywhere, sometimes even faster on the body! Anti-aging body creams should include retinol to benefit from its effects.
The beneficial effects of retinol will also be observed on areas of the body that tend to sag over the years: thighs, arms, buttocks, stomach. The décolleté will also benefit from regular application to delay the appearance of wrinkles and brown spots caused by the sun.
Conclusion
Retinol is clearly the most powerful anti-aging active known to science today. Its effects on reducing fine lines and wrinkles, stimulating collagen production, and improving skin elasticity and firmness are well documented. However, to maximize its effectiveness and minimize the risk of irritation, it must be used morning and night over the long term. Fourth-generation retinol, such as Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR), allows this rhythm to be maintained with a higher degree of tolerance than previous forms.
I have integrated HPR retinoate into my formulations to ensure that you benefit from the latest scientific advances in your anti-aging care. By better understanding the mechanisms and best practices for using retinol, you will be able to integrate this powerful ingredient into your skincare routine and preserve the youthfulness and health of your skin.
All my creams contain HPR retinoate:
- At a concentration of 0.5% in the Day Cream and Eye Cream , moisturizing creams designed for use during the day.
- At a higher concentration of 1.5% in the Night Cream , a richer night cream for intensified skin regeneration.
- And as always, the same rich content of anti-aging active ingredients in the Body Cream , which contains 0.5% HPR retinoate to treat the entire body.
Dr Patricia Delarive